How To Make Twisted Fringe

Making Twisted Fringe is easy, if you just follow these simple steps.
Difficulty: Average
Time Required: 10 minutes per fringe
Here's How:

Pass the needle out of the bead in the base row, where ever you want the fringe to begin.

Add all the beads for one side of the fringe.

Add your "bottom beads". It helps if there is at least one larger bead (4 - 5 mm) at the bottom of the fringe, especially when you are just starting out.

Pass back through the "bottom beads" and add the beads for the other side of the fringe.

Setting the piece near the edge of a table, let your needle dangle over the edge of the table. Wax the free side of the thread to keep the needle in place.

Holding the thread close to the end of the seed beads you just added, begin twisting. Using a fingertip moistener from the office supply store will help tremendously.

Start the twist at the first joint of your index finger, and roll the thread towards the tip of the finger. Do this 4 or 5 times.

Holding the thread near the beads, let the dangling needle untwist itself, to keep it from tangling. Make remaining twists.

Pass back through the top bead or the next open place on your base row. The fringe will twist on to itself, and should hold.

Pull the thread taunt, but not too hard. Pass out of the nest bead in the base row and start from Step One again.

Tips:

Wax the top few inches of thread to keep the needle from slipping during the dangling.

Use your left hand to twist and your right had to pinch and hold the thread, if you are righthanded.

Reverse Tip 2 if you are left handed.

Rolling the thread is the fastest and easiest way to get the twists in place.

Use the same number of twists on each fringe. Practice really does make perfect!

What You Need:

Fringe Beads

Fringe Thread

Beeswax

Fingertip moistener

Needle

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Cross Stitch Tips - How to Add Seed Beads to Cross Stitch Designs

* Seed beads may be added to a design as you stitch or as a last step in the completion of the project.

* It is best to use a specially designed beading needle to add seed beads, but a size 28 tapestry needle may work.

* The floss color used to attach seed beads should be indicated in the directions for the pattern. If the floss color is not, choose a color from the design if the bead is to be added in a stitched area. If the bead is not in an area of stitches, but stands alone in the design, use a color of floss that matches the bead or the fabric.

* Use a half stitch to add the seed bead unless otherwise indicated in the design instructions. Insert the needle from the back of the fabric, add the bead, then take the needle back down.

* A second half stitch (from the opposite direction) may be used to further secure the seed bead. If more than one strand of floss is used, allow one strand of floss to fall on each side of the seed bead.

* Use a Bead-nabber to pick up and hold seed beads.

* A small painter's palette is an inexpensive way to corral the beads for your project.

* When stitching rows of beads, start at the lower portion of the project and work your way up.

* Make certain that the half stitches used to attach the beads all face the same way.

* Because the eye of the beading needle is usually smaller than a tapestry needle, use a needle threader. When using two strands of floss, it may be easier to thread one strand of floss at a time into the eye of the needle. Take care with stitching with beading needles. The eye will break if too much force is applied.



Seed bead-related items shown in photo:
Small painting palette
needle threader
orange Mill Hill seed beads
beading needles
Bead-nabber

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ocean blue ring beads

The finished product measures about 1.5" x 1.5". Use smaller beads for smaller size or bigger beads for bigger ones. Nice as a pendant, ring, embellishment on clothes or ornament to hang on Christmas tree . . . Be creative!

Check out how to add ring band or bail here.

Material:
3 4mm fire polished glass beads - light blue
6 4mm fire polished glass beads - white transparent AB
15 4mm fire polished glass beads - blue
size 11 seed beads - metallic blue

100cm fishing line










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How To Start a Beading Project From Scratch

Perhaps you are a crafter in another medium but find yourself inexplicably attracted to beads and want to start beading. Maybe you've never held a needle before but want to get started now. Keep reading for all the tips and ideas to get you rolling, just like a beading pro!

Difficulty: Easy

Time Required: a few hours

Here's How:

1. Decide which size/type of bead you'd like to work with - Czech or Japanese 11/0 beads and Japanese Delica beads are excellent choices for a new beader. Remember - the larger the bead size number, the smaller the bead! Try not to start with anything smaller than an 11/0, in order to avoid frustration.
2. Choose a needle to work with. Charlene of 5Z's carries some wonderful Miyuki brand beading needle. Some beaders swear by Pony Brand needles, other prefer John James brand. I like al of these types, as well as some various "plain wrap" beading needles I've found. Do steer clear of the "collapsible eye" twisted wire needles - they are difficult to work with. Remember that beading needle sizes roughly correlate to bead sizes - a Size 10 or 11 needle will work well with 11/0 beads.
3. Choose a thread to work with. I am a devoted Nymo beader, but I have grown to absolutely love the C-Lon thread from Caravan Beads. Some beaders swear by Silamide, but I find that it tends to unravel when it gets wet, so I avoid it. Avoid sewing thread, dental floss, monofilament thread and embroidery thread (even silk) as these fibers are not made for beading and have a tendency to break, fray and eventually rot.
4. Decide on a stitch to learn. Almost every beader I know has begun with either Brick Stitch or Peyote Stitch. Flat, even count Peyote may be the most used stitch there is. There are many patterns available in this stitch.
5. Pick a pattern. For a very first project, stick to something simple and fast - getting a project completed is a great way to give yourself some positive reinforcement! Keep color choices simple and fairly far apart on the color wheel - that makes it easier to complete the pattern.
6. Get the beads you'll need for this project. Many patterns come with a color legend that will tell you which bead color numbers you'll need. If your pattern doesn't come with a legend, then just choose colors as close to the pattern as you can. or else make your own color choices.
7. Arrange your workspace. A piece of Vellux blanket is an excellent beading surface. Pour your beads into small, manageable piles on the Vellux and place your pattern in an easy to access spot. Make sure you have good lighting.
8. Thread your needle and prepare it with beeswax if you like to work with prepared thread. I do, and give my thread a light coat of wax before I begin a project.
9. Begin your project with a basic "stop" bead at the end of your thread. Place a bead on the thread and then loop back through it to secure the end of the thread and help keep your beads from falling off.
10. Begin working your pattern. That's all there is to it!

Tips:

1. Make sure you have enough beads and thread of the same color to complete the project. Nothing is worse than running out of a bead color halfway through!
2. Work with a comfortable thread length and wax your thread lightly to keep it from tangling.
3. Lighting may be a beaders best friend, especially if that beader is "of a certain age".
4. Keep a couple of spare needles around, just in case.
5. Make sure your pattern is readable. I like to make a copy of mine and keep it in a page protector, That way, if I want to mark my rows as I go, my original pattern is still in good condition.

What You Need:

• A beadwork pattern in the stitch of choice.
• Beads for the design in the colors called for and in the size required.
• Beading needles in the proper size for the beads.
• Thread and thread conditioner of choice.
• Workspace and good lighting. Natural light is a great choice.
• Keep some scissors handy.
• You might want to print a basic tutorial on the stitch you're using.

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20 Fun Beading Tips

Looking to make beading more fun and less stressful? Try one or more of these tips!

1. Worried about spilling beads? Set up a surface that has low tips so you can avoid spilling them on the floor.
2. Use 3 or 4 feet of thread to prevent tangles.

3. Compliment your beautiful beaded jewelry by using clasps.

4. Stay away from "super" glues. Use a good jeweler's glue, like Hypo Cement.

5. Prevent tarnishing by rubbing car wax on a piece of silver, then allow it to dry and wax it off with a soft cloth.

6. Want to always have something in your tool collection to snap sharp wire ends? Invest in a small metal nail
file.

7. When you thread a needle, put on some chapstick. After licking the thread, you'll automatically coat the end and keep the tiny thread fibers from separating.

8. Using white-out, mark the beads of every other round. The marks you make will help you remember your place. Also, the white fluid will chip off after drying, so you won't have to worry about anything permanent!

9. Peyote-stitch graphs and brick-stitch graphs are the exact same thing.

10. If you make a mistake while sewing seed beads, look away and break the beads by inserting a large needle into the hole. Pick somewhere nearby that spot and start a new spot, weaving where you would like a new bead to be. Hide the threads that are left showing.

11. Accidentally put seed beads in the wrong spot, or used mismatched color thread? User a permanent marker to hide your mistake!

12. When looking to buy silver, keep one thing in mind. If the price advertised SEEMS to good to be true, it usually is. Don't be fooled!

13. Don't want your beads to roll away from you? Use a washcloth or towel as a flat beading surface!

14. When you go bead shopping, ask the cashier or clerk in the store about what kind of beads you've bought. The more information they can give you, the better.

15. Working on some jewelry that requires a lot of stringing of seed beads? Buy a bead spinner and save yourself some time!

16. No matter how many estimations you might make for how many beads you may think you need for a project, always buy a little extra.

17. Pull on beading thread an inch at a time to stretch it out. But don't pull too hard!

18. Want to make sure your thread is strong? Treat it with beeswax!

19. Make sure a beading size chart and small measuring tape are on you at all times.

20. Of all the beading and sewing tools you could use, don't neglect your most important one -- your eyes! Make sure that when you're working with beads, you have as much light as possible.

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Use Vintage Glass Bicone Beads to Make Vintage Earrings

A beautiful old necklace that breaks can be salvaged. Even though the original piece can no longer be worn, it's possible to make wire jewelry such as vintage earrings using the vintage glass beads. Keepsake jewelry like vintage earrings can be made for several family members using vintage glass beads from a piece of jewelry that once belonged to a relative.
Choose the Vintage Glass Bicone Beads

When selecting beads to use for vintage earrings, the only rule is to choose what will look good. Some vintage glass beads have a finish or design that is no longer produced. These beads are special and provide a unique look to earrings and other vintage jewelry. Paired with complementary new bicone beads, vintage beads can be made into beautiful earrings that will be enjoyed for years.
Gather the Supplies to Make New Vintage Earrings

Technically, earrings made from vintage glass beads are not vintage, but the beads are, which can lend a look that is not easily reproducible when using new beads. Gather the supplies needed to make a pair of vintage earrings:

* an assortment of vintage bicone beads
* new or vintage spacers
* 2 ear wires, fishhook or lever back
* 2 headpins
* round nose pliers
* flat nose pliers
* flush cutter

Make Vintage Earrings

When using vintage glass beads to make wire jewelry like earrings, it's possible to make truly one-of-a-kind pieces. Beadage provides these steps to make simple earrings with a dangle:

1. Put the vintage beads and any spacers on the headpins in the correct arrangement. Be sure to put the beads that will be on the bottom first.
2. Make a 90-degree bend in the headpin using the flat nose pliers to begin forming the loop.
3. Place the round nose pliers on the tail of the headpin and bend the wire around the round part of the pliers to form a simple loop.
4. Where the loop extends past the headpin, snip the excess wire with the flush cutter as close as possible.
5. Use the flat nose pliers to straighten the loop so it is straight, if needed.
6. On the ear wire, open the round hole at the cut by gently moving it to one side with the flat nose pliers to open the hole.
7. Place the headpin dangle through the hole of the ear wire. Close the hole with the flat nose pliers.
8. Repeat this process for the other vintage earring.
9. Arrange the beads according to how they will appear on the earring dangle. Make two sets.

Enjoying Vintage Glass Bicone Beaded Earrings

Vintage glass bicone beads remade into beautiful new earrings can be given as gifts or worn by the one who makes them. When family receive earrings that contain vintage beads from a loved one's necklace or other piece of vintage jewelry, the gift is special and suitable for handing down to the next generation.

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Swarovski 5301 3mm Faceted Bicone Crystal

Measurements: Length 3mm, Width 3mm
Color: Crystal
Material: Leaded Crystal Glass
Shape or Style: Faceted Bicone
Place of Origin: Austria

Swarovski 5301 3mm Faceted Bicone Crystal

Crystal glass Swarovski Elements bead from Austria. These faceted bicone beads in Swarovski Elements's 5301 style are the perfect accent for your beaded jewelry creations. Use only Swarovski Elements beads when you want to look your absolute best. Remember, when you buy your beads and bead supplies from Artbeads.com, FREE SHIPPING is available in the USA with no minimum purchase requirement.

NOTE: Swarovski Elements is replacing their 5301 faceted bicones with the recently upgraded 5328 XILION bicones that feature 12 meticulously-cut facets that alternate in size. Check back frequently for the latest colors and sizes!

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Beading Basics

Tools

	Crimping pliers are for just what their name implies, crimping! The back slot puts a seam in the middle of the crimp tube, separating the ends of the flex wire and trapping it firmly. The front slot rounds out the tube and turns it into a small, tidy bead.
	Chain-nose pliers are the most useful tool in your entire toolbox. For holding, opening and closing jump rings and bending sharp angles.
	Round-nose pliers are intended for turning round loops. They do not work well for holding or grasping since they tend to leave a small dent.
	Flat-nose pliers are a wire power tool. They are excellent for turning sharp corners, holding items and for opening and closing jump rings.
	Wire flush cutters leave one flat side and one pointed side on each cut. Using flush cutters is especially important when working with heavy gauges of wire (20-gauge or smaller). One side of the cutter is flat and the other is indented.
	Nylon-jaw pliers can be used to harden or straighten wire.
	Jeweler’s hammers have fine, smooth curved heads to leave a clean impression. The round peen side works well for texturing wire and metal sheet.
	A bench block is a flat, smooth piece of hardened steel. Hammering on top of a block flattens out and hardens the wire. Bench blocks are also used for stamping metal to get a clean impression.

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Materials

	Eye Pins are wires with a loop on one end and a straight portion of wire where beads can be strung. Length and gauges vary; most earrings use 24-gauge eye pins from 1 1/2 – 2 1/2 inches.
	Head Pins are a piece of wire with a stop end like a fine nail head. A bead slides onto the head pin and stops on the head. Lengths and gauges vary; most earrings use 24-gauge head pins from 1 1/2 – 2 1/2 inches.
	Jump Rings are one of the most versatile findings used in jewelry-making. They come in all sizes, gauges and metals. They are measured by diameter (width) and gauge (weight).
	Ear Wires come in many different styles. Regular fishhook style are the most common and the easiest to make yourself. Recommended weight for ear wires is either 22- or 20-gauge.
	Crimp Tubes are small soft metal cylinders that can be flattened or formed around flexible beading wire to secure the ends. They are an essential component for bead stringing projects.
	Wire comes in many sizes or gauges. Gauge is the measured diameter of the wire. The higher the number, the thinner the wire. Wire can be tempered soft, half-hard or hard, which refers to its stiffness. Copper, silver and gold-filled are most commonly used for jewelry.
	Flexible Beading Wire comes in several weights from .010 - .026-inch diameter and is designed for stringing. It is available in precious metal and several colors and is made from 7 to 49 strands of steel wire, twisted and encased in a flexible plastic coating. Ends are finished with crimp beads using either crimping or chainnose pliers.

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Basics Step-by-Step

Creating your own beaded jewelry is easy and only takes a few tools. Practice these techniques using less expensive metal findings. Once your finishing techniques are perfected, use real sterling silver or vermeil (real gold plating over sterling silver) to add elegance to your beadwork.

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Opening & Closing Jump Rings

Jump rings are one of the most versatile findings used in jewelry-making. They come in all sizes and gauges.
Use two pairs of smooth chain-nose pliers (bent or flat-nose pliers work fine as a second plier). (Photo A)
Push ring open with right plier while holding across the ring with left plier. To close, hold in the same way and rock the ring back and forth until ring ends rub against each other or you hear a click. Moving the ring past closed then back hardens the ring and assures a tight closure. (Photo B)

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Making and Eye Pin or Round Loop

Eye pins should be made with half-hard wire to make sure they hold their shape. 22-gauge will fit through most beads, with the exception of many semi-precious stones. Most Czech glass beads and 4mm crystals will fit on 20-gauge wire.

The length used for the eye loop depends on how big you want the loop. Here we will use 3/8 inch for a moderate size loop. Flush trim end of wire. (Photo A)

Using chain-nose pliers, make a 90-degree bend 3/8 inch from end of wire. (Photo B)

Using round-nose pliers, grasp the end of the wire so no wire sticks out between plier blades. (Photo C1)

Begin making a loop by rolling your hand away from your body. Don’t try to make the entire loop in one movement. Roll your hand 1/4 turn counterclockwise. (Photo C2)

Without removing pliers from loop, open plier blade slightly and pivot plier back toward your body clockwise about 1/4 turn. (Photo D)

Close plier onto the wire and roll the loop until it comes around, next to the 90-degree bend. (Photo E)

Open and close eye-pin loops the same way as jump rings, by pushing open front to back. (Photo F)

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Making Wire-Wrapped Loops

Practice wire wrapping with either 22- or 24-gauge wire. Harden slightly by pulling on one end with the other end clamped in a vise or pull one or two times through nylon-jaw pliers. (Photo A)

Make a 90-degree bend about 1 1/2 inches from end of the wire using chain-nose pliers. (Photo B)

Using round-nose pliers, grab wire about 3/8 inch away from the 90-degree and roll your hand away from yourself, toward the bend until a loop is halfway formed. (Photos C1 and C2)

Without removing plier from forming loop, open the jaw and rotate plier clockwise about 1/4 turn. (Photo D)

Grab the end of the wire with your left (nondominant) hand and pull it around the rest of the way until it crosses itself and completes the loop. (Photo E)

Switch to chain-nose pliers, holding across the loop. Wrap tail around wire under loop with your left hand. If you are using a heavy gauge of wire, it is often easier to use a second plier to pull the tail around instead of your fingers. (Photos F1 and F2)

Flush cut wire as close to the wrap as possible. Tuck end down if needed, using chain-nose pliers. (Photos G1 and G2)

To create a wrap on the opposite end of the bead, leave a gap equal to wrap space on first end. Grasp to the right of the wrap space and make a 90-degree bend. (Photos H1 and H2)

Repeat from Photo C–H to complete.

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Hammering Wire

Hammering hardens and flattens round wire. This can be especially important when making ear wires or clasps that need to hold their shape. Always use a smooth, hardened steel surface to guarantee a clean finish. Any marks or scars on a bench block or hammer will impress on the surface of wire or sheet metal.

Create your shape from wire. Keep hammer flat to prevent marring wire. Flip over after a few taps and hammer on opposite side. Don’t get carried away, if you hammer too much metal becomes brittle and breaks. (Photo A)

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Crimping

String a crimp bead onto flexible wire. String clasp or ring and pass tail of flexible wire back through crimp to form a loop.

Hold wires parallel and make sure crimp is positioned correctly. Using front slot on plier, shape crimp into a small oval. (Photo A)

Put oval into back slot of plier and squeeze to make fold in the center with one wire on each side of fold. (Photo B)

Return to front slot, and squeeze again to tighten crimp. Do a few more rotations and squeezes to solidify and shape crimp bead. Trim wire tail. (Photo C)

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How to Make a Crystal Bead Figurine

Beading is becoming a popular craft. It has left the world of flat two-dimensional jewelry and clothing direction and entered the world of three-dimensional figures. Some designs are very interact and complex, while others are very simple and perfect for kids crafts. Here is a simple doll for beginners.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• 6 3 mm Swarovski Bicone
• 2 5 mm Swarovski Bicone
• 6 6 mm Swarovski Rivoli
• 6 8 mm Swarovski Rivoli
• 40 mm eyepin
• 0.3 mm Nonelastic thread
• Polymer clay doll head or large round or bicone bead.

Making the Doll

1. Step 1

   Cut a piece of thread about 5 or 6 inches long, or longer if that makes it easier to work with.
   
   Thread two 3 mm bicone beads to mark the center of the thread.
   
   On the each side of them thread one 3mm bicone bead and one 3mm bicone bead.
   
   Re thread the end of the thread through each 5 mm bicone bead respectively.
   
   Add a 3 mm bicone to each respective end of the thread.
   
   Knot the thread and cut off the excess as close to the beads as possible.

2. Step 2

   Cut a piece of thread about 5 or 6 inches long, or longer if that makes it easier for you to work with.
   
   Thread six 6 mm rivoli beads in a row.
   
   Knot the ends, forming a circle, cut the left over thread as close to the beads as possible.
   
   Repeat Steps 1 through 3 of this section with the 8 mm rivoli beads.

3. Step 3

   Slide the circle of 8 mm rivoli beads on the eyepin followed by the circle of 6 mm rivoli beads then the bicone arms.
   
   Last, slide the doll head, or the bead you are using for the head, on the eyepin.
   
   Using the round nose pliers, roll the end of the eyepin down towards the head/bead to create a loop

Tips & Warnings

• Sometimes the thread knots will come loose, a good way to prevent this is to dab them with clear glue or clear nail polish. It is not impartiality to make these figurines with Swarovski crystal beads, less expensive glass or even plastic beads will work just as nicely. To make things even easier, instead of assembling all the needed bead supplies yourself, try looking for prebagged kits. These kits will contain all the items needed to make the figurine except the tools and are found at local craft and bead stores. For the tools, any local hard ware supply store will have what you need, also local craft stores as well as beading and jewelry supply stores.

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Make Old Plastic or Overprocessed Matte Glass Beads Look New Again New Life to Your Scuffed Beads

I love to find new uses for household and personal care products. Something in my personality is gratified by using double-duty items; my clothes are all separates, I re-use just about every jar, coffee can and old box, and recycle everything I can. So, of course, I'm especially happy when I find a product that will do double duty; such as this product created for hair that gets all frizzy in humid weather when you want it to lay straight and glossy. It's called Biosilk Silk Therapy and is manufactured by the Farouk Systems, Inc. located in Houston, Texas, U.S.A.

I actually received my first bottle of this product so long ago, it was actually really inexpensive; something like $2bottle. Not, it is considerably more expensive, but they have refined the formula and it works better than ever on face, nose, ears, and lips. I've even used it to blow-dry my hair; a rare event, and never terribly successful, but one I still practice every so often just to keep up with being all girly.

I still can't remember how I connected the idea of using this product on plastic beads, but I must have overheard something about some tire product containing silicone and retained it in my own peculiar, odd mix of a filing cabinet of memories.

I had purchased these very cool vintage beads made of black plastic and set with rhinestones. These beads looked as though they had once been gorgeous but, over time, had become scuffed and looked a bit "underloved" when they should look as if they had been long enjoyed, worn, passed down and while nowhere near "perfect" vintage, then at least "cared-for though used extensively" vintage. That's my favorite kind of vintage; vintage with a story, vintage that has had a life. It has been worn by the various owners over the years, it has been loved, well cared for, enjoyed, maybe had an accident or two, gotten scuffed and dull over the years, has a few scars, but is still just as beautiful.

These beads needed a bit of the attention they had not received prior to becoming my beads, and would need to soon be worked into a piece of jewelry to be worn, loved, tossed around a little bit, maybe nabbed by the cat once or twice when he was collecting shiny things, as he does occasionally, and generally been allowed to live. So, I thought of the method I use to clean glass beads, grabbed the window cleaner, gave them a spritz and - yep, they turned a sort of white/gray and horrible looking. Washing, soaking, and a final, desperate scrubbing did noting but add that faux "worn vintage" look I had so wanted, but still they were discolored. I put them away in a drawer, sad but not yet out of hope.

A few days later, I received a shipment of sample beads from a favorite bead seller, the unspeakably cool resin beads from Natural Touch Resin Beads makes of the most gorgeous resin beads I've ever looked upon.

Naturally, having been shipped, imported, prepared for various shows, shown at shows indoors and out, some of these beads had become a bit grimy, in need of a good soapy bath. So, I drew a sink full of very hot water, added soap, then the beads, then walked off for about an hour to do something else.

I was sure that my resin beads were goners. they were goners. All of them, strands of resin beads, beautiful, fabulous, handmade resin beads, all that beauty, a dull whitish sort of cast, with almost no color remaining.

I had also pulled out some of those little glass globs - the type that are used in flower arrangements or in some stained glass projects - that looked like they had been tumbled to give them a matte finish. It looked like they were covered in some kind of dust, completely obscuring the color of the globs. When they were wet, I could see that these globs had a blend of clear and purple glass and were very cool looking, but I had to do something about the powdery finish that made the glass almost occluded. So, I applied the Biosilk, and what do you know - gorgeous! Still matte, but with a sheen, so that the colors inside the globs is visible.

Of course, I know that the application of oil or grease-based products will do the same thing to glass or plastic that has surface irregularities that give it a dull appearance, but I don't care to use oil or grease on beads. It not only attracts dust and dirt, but it rubs off on clothing, smears, and, in some cases, can even go rancid, making the beads smell awful. The Biosilk product does none of that. Once I put it on the beads, it seem to soak in/ A bit of buffing removes any leftover product from the immediate surface, so it will not transfer to fabric or skin. It does not attract dirt and has, so far, not "turned" or gone bad, I and I first used it on plastic beads about five years ago.

I cannot say for sure that Biosilk is perfect for every bead made. I'm not even sure which ingredient makes the glass and plastic/resin look good, since I'm not a chemist. I do know that, unlike some silicone-based products, it does not seem to alter the plastic or dissolve it, making it gooey or sticky; it just seems to moisturize the beads, giving them a nice sheen.

Try it yourself. Pick up a small bottle, pull out few matte glass or scuffed plastic or resin beads, and give them a wipe. I bet you'll be pleased with the results.

You can purchase Biosilk in 2 oz. bottles which, if you're using it strictly for beads and not for hair, should last a good long time. I've had my bottle (the 5.64 oz. size) for well over a year, using it for hair, mostly, and have used less than an ounce. You only need a tiny bit of this cool product to rejuvenate your old plastic and resin beads. There are other products much like it. I can't vouchsafe them, as the only one I've tried is the Biosilk, however, since the ingredients are basically the same I'm sure the others would work as well.

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Bead a Beaded Bicone Bead Using Flat Round Peyote Stitch

I was trying to design a cone shaped sea shell and came up with these beaded beads instead. Apparently I've forgotten most of what I learned in geometry class because I was surprised to find that you don't get a cone when you roll up a triangle! Finally I figured out that what I was missing was a rounded edge and that any portion of a circle short of a whole one makes a cone when you put the straight edges together, duh. Ok, now what? How do I get a pie with a slice or two taken out? Well to make a whole circle I usually use flat round peyote so I figured I'd try it with some of the sections removed. My flat round peyote graph is for a six bead start, so it has six sections. I decided to use 3 sections or a half circle.

The following graph is what I used to make the bead shown. Notice I had to add an extra row in order to make it come out right, otherwise there would be an odd number of columns.

To use this graph simply treat it as though it were a whole flat round peyote graph. Start with three beads tied in a circle. For the second round add two beads between bead one and two, two beads between beads two and three and two beads between beads 3 and one. Continue adding rows as described in this tutorial for Flat Round Peyote Stitch until you reach the end of the graph. At this point you'll have half a bead. Now start working back toward the center of the graph skipping the outermost row. Instead of doing increases every third row, do decreases in the same spot instead. Try to keep your tension as firm as possible to avoid ending up with a mushy bead. These beads are light enough to be strung on regular heavy beading thread so go ahead and stuff your bead with fiberfill if you need to.

One neat thing about this is that you can change the size and shape of the bead you end up with by using more of fewer sections and/or more or fewer rows. Using more sections makes a wider less "steep" cone and more rows makes the bead longer from hole to hole.

Here is a graph for a much larger bead.

And of course, some blank graphs for designing your own beads! :-)

Two Sections (makes a very skinny bead)

Three Sections

Four Sections

Have fun!

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24 Swarovski Crystal Beads Bicone 4mm Crystal Clear, Pack Of 24

Info About 24 Swarovski Crystal Beads Bicone 4mm Crystal Clear, Pack Of 24

Few crystals catch the light like Swarovski® crystals
do. Our genuine Swarovski® crystal beads are
expertly cut and polished glass crystal, sure to give
all your work that extra sparkle and colour boost!
Swarovski® Bicone beads are multi faceted glass
crystal beads. Their surface is cut to an extremely
high-precision, making them sparkly when they come
into contact with light.

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24 Swarovski Crystal Beads Bicone 4mm Indian Sapphire, Pack Of 24

Info About 24 Swarovski Crystal Beads Bicone 4mm Indian Sapphire, Pack Of 24

Few crystals catch the light like Swarovski® crystals
do. Our genuine Swarovski® crystal beads are
expertly cut and polished glass crystal, sure to give
all your work that extra sparkle and colour boost!
Swarovski® Bicone beads are multi faceted glass
crystal beads. Their surface is cut to an extremely
high-precision, making them sparkly when they come
into contact with light.

Thanks for visiting biconebeads.blogspot.com. Keep visiting us for latest update about bicone beads.

24 Swarovski Crystal Beads Bicone 4mm Amethyst, Pack Of 24

Info About 24 Swarovski Crystal Beads Bicone 4mm Amethyst
Few crystals catch the light like Swarovski® crystals
do. Our genuine Swarovski® crystal beads are
expertly cut and polished glass crystal, sure to give
all your work that extra sparkle and colour boost!
Swarovski® Bicone beads are multi faceted glass
crystal beads. Their surface is cut to an extremely
high-precision, making them sparkly when they come
into contact with light.

Thanks for visiting biconebeads.blogspot.com. Keep visiting us for latest update about bicone beads.

Swarovski bicone beads to be replaced with Xillion Bead

Swarovski are to alter their anytime accepted and chump favourite bicone beads with the new and bigger Xillion bead.

From June 2nd through September 2009 CRYSTALLIZED™ - Swarovski Elements will alteration to the ablaze XILION advancement of the 5301 Bead, represented by the new and bigger article:

5328 XILION Bead.

The advocate XILION cut, with its alternating ample and baby facets, after-effects in abnormally college accuracy and decidedly acute ablaze reflection. In addition, this cut is differentiated from all added articles on the bazaar and absorb protected. The added cardinal of facets enhances the all-embracing actualization of the beads and the bastard belt band aftereffect in bigger cutting abundance of the accomplished design. You will account from the different XILION brilliance, arch to clearer adverse amid your articles and designs and those of your competitors.

The alluring XILION cut will be activated to all accepted sizes of the bicone beads except for 2.5 mm, which is too baby to be upgraded. As was the case for all added XILION products, the commodity cardinal will additionally be afflicted and will now become art. 5328.

The new commodity will be accessible – after any added amount access – in the aforementioned array as the absolute commodity 5301. For application, the 5301 and 5328 XILION bicone beads can be accumulated as their ambit and geometry are complimentary.

From June 2nd through September there will be a alteration period. During that time art. 5328 can alone be ordered and will alone be shipped, if the analogue 5301 is out of stock.

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Swarovski Bicone Beads

Swarovski bicone beads are perfect for adding some sparkle to jewellery or threading onto garments. They are diamond shaped multi faceted cut glass crystals that sparkle when properties arrive into get a message to provided light. Available in a margin of sizes they all hold a hole through the centre of the crystal bicone beads so that they can be threaded onto wire, cord or thread. The AB coating on some of the crystals gives a neutral rainbow sheen to the bicones surface.
Our range of Swarovski crystal glass Bicone beads are available in 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm and 8mm sizes.

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Bicone Beads: How to make pendant and adjustable necklace

In these video they show the tutorial how to make pendant and adjustable neckless and bicone beads. Hope you enjoy! Thanks for visiting biconebeads.blogspot.com. Keep visiting us for latest update about bicone beads.

Type of Bicone Beads

Product Information

A bag of 20, 4mm clear Swarovski crystal beads with an AB coating. Very pretty beads with a fantastic sparkle.

Bead Code: 5301 (bicone)
Size: 4mm
Size of hole: 0.9mm
Colour: Crystal (001)
Coating: AB

Product Information

A bag of 20, 4mm Siam red Swarovski crystal beads. Very pretty beads with a fantastic sparkle.

Bead Code: 5301 (bicone)
Size: 4mm
Size of hole: 0.9mm
Colour: Siam (208)

Product Information

A bag of 20, 4mm light rose pink Swarovski crystal beads. Very pretty beads with a fantastic sparkle.

Bead Code: 5301 (bicone)
Size: 4mm
Size of hole: 0.9mm
Colour: Light Rose (223)

Product Information

A bag of 20, 4mm Peridot green Swarovski crystal beads. Very pretty beads with a fantastic sparkle.

Bead Code: 5301 (bicone)
Size: 4mm
Size of hole: 0.9mm
Colour: Peridot (214)

Product Information

A bag of 20, 4mm Emerald green Swarovski crystal beads. Very pretty beads with a fantastic sparkle.

Bead Code: 5301 (bicone)
Size: 4mm
Size of hole: 0.9mm
Colour: Emerald

Product Information

A bag of 20, 4mm Topaz orange Swarovski crystal beads. Very pretty beads with a fantastic sparkle.

Bead Code: 5301 (bicone)
Size: 4mm
Size of hole: 0.9mm
Colour: Topaz (203)

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How to Make Bicone Bead Jewelry

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Necklace:
• Bead design board
• Beading wire
• 32 crimp beads
• Crimpers
• Clasp
• 15 assorted bicone beads
• Earrings:
• 12 bicone beads
• 6 headpins
• Round nose pliers
• 2 French ear wires
• Chain nose pliers

Necklace

1. Step 1

   Design the layout of your bicone necklace on your bead board. Decide how long you would like your necklace to be. A necklace that dips right below your collar bone should measure 17 to 19 inches. Divide the bicone beads into three groups and lay them out in three staggered rows.

2. Step 2

   Cut a length of wire 6 inches longer than you want the shortest strand on the necklace to be. Cut two more pieces of wire, one 7 inches longer and one 8 inches longer. The differing lengths will create a layered look in your finished piece.

3. Step 3

   String a crimp bead onto the shortest piece of wire and run the wire end through one half of the clasp. Bring the end back through the crimp bead to create a loop around the clasp attachment point. Pull the loop tight and crimp the bead in place. Trim any excess wire and repeat with the other two lengths of wire.

4. Step 4

   Situate the necklace so the end with the attached clasp is on your left-hand side. String a crimp bead onto the shortest wire and crimp it in place immediately to the left of where your first bicone will be. Add the bicone to the wire and pull it up against the crimp bead. String another crimp bead onto the wire and secure in place on the other side of the bicone. Repeat this process with all remaining bicone and crimp beads, working from the shortest strand to the longest.

5. Step 5

   Repeat step 3 with the right-hand side of the necklace and the other side of the clasp.

Earrings

6. Step 1

   Divide your headpins into two groups of three each. Thread the bicone beads onto the headpins so that each group has a headpin with one bead, a headpin with two beads and a headpin with three beads.

7. Step 2

   Grasp the tip of the first headpin with your round nose pliers. Wrap the headpin around the pliers to form a loop. Wrap each remaining headpin around the same part of the pliers to ensure loops of the same size.

8. Step 3

   Open the loop on the bottom of the ear wire by holding each side of the opening with each pair of pliers and twisting them apart. String the group of three headpins onto the loop, making sure each headpin faces the same direction. Add the headpin with three bicones first, followed by the two-bead and single-bead headpins respectively.

9. Step 4

   Close the ear wire by reversing the twisting motion with your pliers. Pinch the loop completely closed with your chain nose pliers. Repeat with the other earring.

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What is Bicone Beads?

Now a days bicone beads become more popular among the beads lovers. It always being a priority choice for the lovers for their accessories. Bicone beads is a is the three-dimensional geometric shape swept by revolving an isosceles triangle around its edge of unequal length beads that make from a material like crystal, glass or plastic.

Bicone beads come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes and materials, the most popular of which is Swarovski crystal. Learning to highlight the interesting shape of the bicone bead will add interest and depth to your jewelry creations while saving you money on store-bought jewelry. You only need a few basic jewelry tools and techniques to make your own necklace and earrings from bicone beads.

The most popular accessories that the lovers of the beads like to wear is neckless, earrings and bracelet. Some of them will make it their self for some of these stuff using their own design and it really look nice. In the nexxt post I'll share the full step by step instruction on how to make your own necklace and earing using bicone beads. See you soon.